Build Plans for a 8ft x 4ft (2.4 x 1.2m) wooden shed
An inexpensive shed to make – The inside measurements are 8ft x 4ft (2.4m x 1.2m) By Les Kenny
Made mostly out of rough sawn 1×6 (25 x150mm) boards, 2×4 (50 x100mm) framing, and 1/2″ (12mm) plywood for the roof. All common materials.
I made this shed for a friend back in the beginning of 2018, and it proved so useful I decided to put the project to print.
At the time I had some fencing materials at my disposal, so that’s what I made it out of. The shed is all rough sawn fencing materials excepting for the plywood roof.
The measurements used
All measurements in this project are given in both inches (standard) and metric (mm).
The standard (inch) measurements are given first followed by their metric equivalent in brackets. For example: 2×4 (50 x 100mm).
Note: The standard (inch) measurements are not an exact match to their metric equivalents. Here, every inch = 25mm for rounding off purposes, to keep things simple. So use one or the other, don’t mix and match.
Materials you will needAll lumber is rough sawn and suitable for exterior use.
- 3×4 (100 x75mm) – 1 @ 8ft (2400mm).
- 2×4 (100 x50mm) – 12 @ 16ft (4800mm).
- 1×6 (25 x150mm) – 87 @ 6ft (1800mm).
- 3/4″ x 3/4″ (20 x20mm) – 20ft (6m).
- 1/2″ (12mm) plywood 2 shts @ 4ft x 8ft (1200 x 2400mm)
- Tube of glue.
- Galvanized flat head nails – 2lb (1kg) of 3-1/2″ (90mm), 2lb (1kg) of 3″ (75mm), 4lb (2kg) of 2-1/2″(60mm). you may have some left over.
Note: Some of the lumber will have to be cut and/or ripped (cut lengthwise to width)
Lets make the floor
For the bearers cut 2 pieces of 3×4 (75 x100mm) lumber @ 4ft (1200mm) long.
For the frame cut 2 pieces of 2×4 (50 x100mm) @ 4ft (1200mm) long, and 3 pieces at 8ft (2400mm) less the thickness of the two end joists, so they will be approximately 92″ (2300mm) long.
For the floor boards, cut eleven 1×6 (25 x150mm) boards @ 4ft (1200mm) long. Use the off-cuts (2ft (600mm)) for 1/2 length floor boards as shown in the floor board plan below, presuming you are cutting the floor boards out of 6ft (1800mm) lengths.
Now simply follow the plans below and make the floor.
Now the roof
Here’s a couple of pics first to give you a rough idea. I used the floor as a bench. The roof frame (the plates) should overhang the floor by at least 2-1/2″ (62mm) all the way around.
For the roof, Cut the pieces from 2×4 (50 x100mm) stock – Refer to the plan drawing below.
Cut 2 @ 101″ (2525mm) for the front and rear plates [F].
Cut 1 @ 100″ (2500mm) for the middle blocking [D]. And then measure and cut into two pieces to fit between the rafters.
Cut 1 @ 101″ (2525mm) and rip it down the middle with the blade angled at 11.3°. Use one piece for the front top batten [C] and the other piece for blocking [E].
Cut 2 @ 53″ (1325mm) less the width of two plates (side plates) – so they will be approximately 45″ (1125mm) long [G].
Cut 4 @ 54″ (1350mm) for the rafters [B] and angle cut them as shown in the plan drawing below.
Cut 4 @ 8-1/2″ (212mm) [A] with one end angled in 11.3 degrees.
Once the pieces are cut you are set to go. Referring to the roof plans in the plans section and the plan drawing, make up the roof.
Begin by making a rectangle with the plates. Next the rafters and props [A] positioned as shown in the plans as that is crucial for placement of the plywood cover. Cut the plywood pieces to fit the rafters. Two pieces 4ft (1200) wide x 21″ (1525) long for each side and a couple of 1ft (300mm) wide off-cuts for the strip in the middle.
Add the side boards and have them run 2″ (50mm) below the frame. Glue and fix the drip bead along the front (and sides – optional).
When done it should look something like this.
Making the walls and door
The walls comprise of two skins (layers) of boards fixed to 3 rows of rails. The rails are positioned (height wise) so that the rails of adjacent walls can overlap in the corners and therefore be fixed together at that point.
The back wall – The plan drawings and explanation.
The back wall stage 1
The previous page are pretty much self explanatory. Fix the 1×6 (25 x 150mm) boards to the three rows of rails spaced as shown.
Start with the two end boards. Have the outside of each board flush with the ends of the rails. Ensure the rails are spaced as shown. Nail with one only nail at each meeting. The plan drawings show the nail placements. Evenly space the other 8 boards and fix them in the same way.
Things to watch:
Ensure that the top of the wall is straight and that the wall is square. Measure diagonally from corner to corner both ways. If both diagonal measurements are the same, then the wall is square. If not, then skew the wall until it is square.
Making the wall square
The back wall stage 2
Fix the second skin just as is shown in the ‘Back wall plan drawings‘. The nailing placements are also shown there.
You will also notice in the drawing that there is a couple of rows of nails that aren’t fixed to rails.
Explanation: They are rows of nails just to hold the boards together to help keep the shed weather proof.
For those rows pre-drill the nail holes first. Use flat head nails that are slightly longer that the thickness of the two boards. The nails will go through the two boards and stick out the other side. Hammer the points over. This locks the two boards together, a bit like rivets.
The side walls
Refer to the plan drawing below and make up the two side walls in the same manner as the back wall – except for a couple of difference…
1.) The end boards overlap the rails by 1″ (25mm) each side. Take notice.
2.) The rails on the side walls are a different height than the rails on the front and back walls. See the plan drawing below.
The picture below shows how the rails overlap in the corners.
The front wall
Make up the front wall in the same manner as ‘the back wall’. The frame is a little different but the method is the same.
Refer to the plan drawing below and make up the door in the same manner as the walls were made.
Let’s put it all together
Just follow the sequence of photos.
Position the floor. Place the back wall with the bottom rail sitting hard on the floor, flush both ends. Place the side wall with the bottom rail packed 2″ (50mm) up off the floor. The back wall rails and the side wall rails will overlap in the corner. You can bolt or screw them together.
Add the other side wall
Add the front wall
Once the walls are fixed in place, you can cut out the bottom rail in the doorway.
Add the doors and pop the roof on
Have some strong people help you lift the roof on. It will sit neatly in place and will not need to be fixed. Put hinges on the doors and fit them.
And there it is
Just a bit of a tidy up
Add some strips of wood for weather stops and fix battens to the corners to help make the shed weather proof as shown below.