Build Plans for a 8ft x 4ft (2.4 x 1.2m) wooden shed

long narrow shed

An inexpensive shed to make – The inside measurements are 8ft x 4ft (2.4m x 1.2m)     By Les Kenny

Made mostly out of rough sawn 1×6 (25 x150mm) boards, 2×4 (50 x100mm) framing, and 1/2″ (12mm) plywood for the roof. All common materials.

Note: This project DOES NOT contain any plan drawings. Plan drawings are only in the PREMIUM PLANS at leskenny.com version. To find out why click here.

Preface

I made this shed for a friend back in the beginning of 2018, and it proved so useful I decided to put the project to print.
At the time I had some fencing materials at my disposal, so that’s what I made it out of. The shed is all rough sawn fencing materials excepting for the plywood roof.


8x4 shed made out of wood

The measurements used

All measurements in this project are given in both inches (standard) and metric (mm).
The standard (inch) measurements are given first followed by their metric equivalent in brackets. For example: 2×4 (50 x 100mm).
Note: The standard (inch) measurements are not an exact match to their metric equivalents. Here, every inch = 25mm for rounding off purposes, to keep things simple. So use one or the other, don’t mix and match.


Note: Plans drawings have been omitted from this space. They are only included in the PREMIUM PLANS at leskenny.com version. To find out why click here.


Materials you will need

All lumber is rough sawn and suitable for exterior use.
  • 3×4 (100 x75mm) – 1 @ 8ft (2400mm).
  • 2×4 (100 x50mm) – 12 @ 16ft (4800mm).
  • 1×6 (25 x150mm) – 87 @ 6ft (1800mm).
  • 3/4″ x 3/4″ (20 x20mm) – 20ft (6m).
  • 1/2″ (12mm) plywood 2 shts @ 4ft x 8ft (1200 x 2400mm)
  • Tube of glue.
  • Galvanized flat head nails – 2lb (1kg) of 3-1/2″ (90mm), 2lb (1kg) of 3″ (75mm), 4lb (2kg) of 2-1/2″(60mm). you may have some left over.

Note: Some of the lumber will have to be cut and/or ripped (cut lengthwise to width)

Lets make the floor

For the bearers cut 2 pieces of 3×4 (75 x100mm) lumber @ 4ft (1200mm) long.
For the frame cut 2 pieces of 2×4 (50 x100mm) @ 4ft (1200mm) long, and 3 pieces at 8ft (2400mm) less the thickness of the two end joists, so they will be approximately 92″ (2300mm) long.
For the floor boards, cut eleven 1×6 (25 x150mm) boards @ 4ft (1200mm) long. Use the off-cuts (2ft (600mm)) for 1/2 length floor boards as shown in the floor board plan below, presuming you are cutting the floor boards out of 6ft (1800mm) lengths.
Now simply follow the plans below and make the floor.

8x4 shed floor plan

8x4 shed floor

Now the roof

Here’s a couple of pics first to give you a rough idea. I used the floor as a bench. The roof frame (the plates) should overhang the floor by at least 2-1/2″ (62mm) all the way around.

shed roof partially made

shed roof being constructed

For the roof, Cut the pieces from 2×4 (50 x100mm) stock – Refer to the plan drawing below.

Cut 2 @ 101″ (2525mm) for the front and rear plates [F].
Cut 1 @ 100″ (2500mm) for the middle blocking [D]. And then measure and cut into two pieces to fit between the rafters.
Cut 1 @ 101″ (2525mm) and rip it down the middle with the blade angled at 11.3°. Use one piece for the front top batten [C] and the other piece for blocking [E].
Cut 2 @ 53″ (1325mm) less the width of two plates (side plates) – so they will be approximately 45″ (1125mm) long [G].
Cut 4 @ 54″ (1350mm) for the rafters [B] and angle cut them as shown in the plan drawing below.
Cut 4 @ 8-1/2″ (212mm) [A] with one end angled in 11.3 degrees.


shed rafter detail


Once the pieces are cut you are set to go. Referring to the roof plans in the plans section and the plan drawing, make up the roof.
Begin by making a rectangle with the plates. Next the rafters and props [A] positioned as shown in the plans as that is crucial for placement of the plywood cover. Cut the plywood pieces to fit the rafters. Two pieces 4ft (1200) wide x 21″ (1525) long for each side and a couple of 1ft (300mm) wide off-cuts for the strip in the middle.
Add the side boards and have them run 2″ (50mm) below the frame. Glue and fix the drip bead along the front (and sides – optional).
When done it should look something like this.


the shed roof finished


Making the walls and door

The walls comprise of two skins (layers) of boards fixed to 3 rows of rails. The rails are positioned (height wise) so that the rails of adjacent walls can overlap in the corners and therefore be fixed together at that point.

The back wall – The plan drawings and explanation.


Note: This project DOES NOT contain any plan drawings. Plan drawings are only in the PREMIUM PLANS at leskenny.com version. To find out why click here.

The back wall stage 1

The previous page are pretty much self explanatory. Fix the 1×6 (25 x 150mm) boards to the three rows of rails spaced as shown.
Start with the two end boards. Have the outside of each board flush with the ends of the rails. Ensure the rails are spaced as shown. Nail with one only nail at each meeting. The plan drawings show the nail placements. Evenly space the other 8 boards and fix them in the same way.

Things to watch:

Ensure that the top of the wall is straight and that the wall is square. Measure diagonally from corner to corner both ways. If both diagonal measurements are the same, then the wall is square. If not, then skew the wall until it is square.

Making the wall square


shed wall made square


The back wall stage 2

Fix the second skin just as is shown in the ‘Back wall plan drawings‘. The nailing placements are also shown there.

You will also notice in the drawing that there is a couple of rows of nails that aren’t fixed to rails.

Explanation: They are rows of nails just to hold the boards together to help keep the shed weather proof.
For those rows pre-drill the nail holes first. Use flat head nails that are slightly longer that the thickness of the two boards. The nails will go through the two boards and stick out the other side. Hammer the points over. This locks the two boards together, a bit like rivets.

shed nailing detail


The side walls

Refer to the plan drawing below and make up the two side walls in the same manner as the back wall – except for a couple of difference…
1.) The end boards overlap the rails by 1″ (25mm) each side. Take notice.
2.) The rails on the side walls are a different height than the rails on the front and back walls. See the plan drawing below.
The picture below shows how the rails overlap in the corners.

shed wall corner joining

shed side wall plans


The front wall

Make up the front wall in the same manner as ‘the back wall’. The frame is a little different but the method is the same.


Note: This project DOES NOT contain any plan drawings. Plan drawings are only in the PREMIUM PLANS at leskenny.com version. To find out why click here.


The doors

Refer to the plan drawing below and make up the door in the same manner as the walls were made.

shed door plan


Let’s put it all together

Just follow the sequence of photos.

assembling a shed stage 1

Position the floor. Place the back wall with the bottom rail sitting hard on the floor, flush both ends. Place the side wall with the bottom rail packed 2″ (50mm) up off the floor. The back wall rails and the side wall rails will overlap in the corner. You can bolt or screw them together.

Add the other side wall


assembling a shed stage 2


Add the front wall


assembling a shed stage 3

Once the walls are fixed in place, you can cut out the bottom rail in the doorway.


Add the doors and pop the roof on


assembling a shed stage 4

Have some strong people help you lift the roof on. It will sit neatly in place and will not need to be fixed. Put hinges on the doors and fit them.


And there it is

assembling a shed stage 5


Just a bit of a tidy up


Add some strips of wood for weather stops and fix battens to the corners to help make the shed weather proof as shown below.


shed weather stops

Note: You can purchase this DIY article in downloadable file including plan drawings with dimensions for a small cost from the Premium Plans at leskenny.com section.